20: Have a plan for packing

Sewing a patch with the Spanish crest onto the Hulk

I took a break from packing to sew this patch onto my backpack. Studying abroad in Spain has been an unforgettable experience. This patch sewn on the bag that will hold everything I own as I travel for the next 2.5 weeks is a symbol of the time I spent here, learning, seeing, experiencing.

With that said, packing is crazy. These two months here have made me forget how crazy it is to try to stuff everything back into a bag!

I have an important decision to make. I've already decided that I don't want to travel for 2.5 weeks with my laptop because I probably won't have much time to use it. Plus, it's heavy and takes up a lot of space. My laptop, I think, wins the award for Largest and Heaviest Laptop in Spain. Seriously.

So here are my options:
1) Mail is back home. Shipping ranges from 50 Euro to 200 Euro and up!
2) Have Alex ship it home for me because he has time to. Will have to pay him back.
3) Pack it in Naomi's checked luggage and get it back from her later.

Another important thing to think about is the mylars! Those three sheets of plastic document the process and evolution of my project. They're 24" x 36", so they won't fit in my backpack. I think a few people are shipping theirs back to Berkeley together, but again, the shipping costs are high. I could also send it back with Naomi.

I've had to throw out or give away things that I know I won't need anymore--my regular-sized sunscreen, lentils, some candy, the bowl and plastic boxes that I bought here. I'm going minimal again so I can pack light! I bought some Febreeze (yup, I found the name brand in Torrevieja) and rebottled it in a 33 mL spray bottle, and poured the laundry detergent into a 33 mL bottle as well. My liquids bag is about to burst.

It also pays to think about how you will travel afterwards. If I was taking the train to travel around Europe, I could have more luggage than just a backpack because the train system doesn't charge for extra bags (and you don't have to have a tiny bag for liquids!). If I was flying RyanAir, I would have to be very, very careful about the size of my bag. I'm flying EasyJet, though, and they're more lenient on bag sizes.

Plan ahead for packing and you will be alright! 

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19: Buckle down for studio!

Diagram

It's that time--final review time! If mid-review strikes fear in the average architecture student's heart, any mention of final review can cause tachycardia, cold sweats, and panic.

But don't worry! It should be different this time! I don't fear desk crits with Alex--I embrace them, because he's been receptive to my ideas and has given me helpful constructive feedback. I'm stuck clicking around in Rhino and Illustrator, but at least my computer still works (one more Mac has decided not to work anymore this week!). I don't know exactly where my project is headed, but Alex says that's a good thing. If I knew where I was going, then there's no room for adaptation, change, and spontaneity that could enrich my project.

I feel like we've been spoiled in the first half--oh, maybe even 2/3rds--of the program by all the leisurely travel to various cities in Spain. It's been really relaxed and now we are paying for it! Not that it's a bad thing--I enjoy the hard work because I know in the end something good will come out of it. It just feels terrible to be sitting in this hard studio chair for hours and hours on end, and, at the end of the day, not feel like I've made any significant progress.

I'm hoping for some last-minute burst of something to make my project really sparkle. For now, it's time to buckle down.

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18: Don't bring a Mac!

Image Courtesy: Apple.com

We've been working a lot more on the computer these days. We had to model in Rhino, which is a task that's pretty intense for a computer to run.

Alex has made known before his dislike for and distrust of Mac computers. He says they're for sissies because everything has to look nice. I have to admit that yes, I am drawn to the aesthetics of Apple products, but it's not like the computers are lacking in terms of speed, storage space, et cetera.

There are a few disadvantages, though, to using a Mac when in architecture school. Most of the 2D and 3D tools that the industry uses, such as AutoCAD, do not run on Macs (or, like Rhino, have unfinished Mac versions). There are ways around this issue, but it's always a pain and takes longer to switch between the Windows side and the Mac side. It's just plain easier to use a Windows computer.

In Spain, specifically, Macs die off pretty quickly. It's still a mystery, but a couple of people's Macbooks have stopped working. I've been doing some informal investigating and from my observations, it seems like Macs tend to heat up way faster than Windows laptops. (The exception is Naomi's HP laptop, which is basically on fire all the time!) And since Spain's average summer temperature is much greater than Berkeley's, these laptops overheat easily. Not dealing with an overheating laptop properly can lead to its demise.

So don't bring a Mac! Or, be prepared to face the consequences.

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17: Book hostels carefully

Photo Courtesy: Ole Barcelona via hostelbookers.com

This is a photo of one of the rooms at Ole Barcelona, the hostel that Naomi, Alaska, and I stayed at for our visit to Barcelona. Looks promising, right?

We were attracted by the low price for one night's stay (around 12 Euro, versus other hostels that were charging 20 Euros and up) as well as its proximity to Gaudi's Sagrada Familia (and the metro station too). But we were put off by the lack of reviews on the Hostelbookers website--there were only two very vague reviews that gave the hostel high ratings. We decided to give it a try anyway.

It was the worst hostel I've ever stayed at! I think I learned that sometimes it pays to choose the hostel that costs a bit more because odds are it will actually be a legitimate hostel.

This hostel had no sign. You press a buzzer to get in, but there's no camera for the receptionist to see who they're buzzing in. We "checked in" but were given no keys! There aren't any lockers, either. Our luggage was stored for the day in an unsecured, disorganized room. The next morning was not much better... The showerhead sprays out of the tub and onto the floor. There's no drain on the floor so the room starts to flood, basically. The sink takes minutes to drain. There was no water in the kitchen because they were fixing the first floor bathroom.

We held our breath and hoped for the best.

We ended up okay. Nothing lost or stolen, but we were in constant fear of some disaster happening and the hostel not taking any responsibility.

But we were treated to the wonderful architecture of Barcelona.

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16: Take the train

Naomi, Alaska, and I decided to take the train from Valencia to Barcelona because it was cheaper than taking the bus. 

Let me tell you, it is worth it, even if it's not cheaper. 

There was so much leg room that I didn't know where to put my feet. No one sat next to me, so I could spread out comfortably because I am shorter than average, but I felt bad because the train was so clean and... legit. Space is a luxury on buses... on trains, it is standard. Even for coach. 

There is even a train car with a cafeteria. Restrooms are at either end of the car. The doors open with a wave of the hand. Movies play on the screen (in Spanish, of course). It is quiet and a smooth, smooth ride. More like a glide.  

And I heard that the trains in Spain are nothing compared to the trains in Italy. I can only imagine what first class is like!

If your budget allows, opt to take the train. Your body will be very happy. This is the most comfortable trip I have made thus far in Spain.

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15: Use your travels for inspiration

Carnival within the riverbed in Valencia

We got our program for our final project in Altea. Our studio was split up into four groups at the beginning to document to Mercadillo. Alex and Pacia used the same groups to assign us four different programs: Water, Fire, Air, and Earth. My group was assigned the Earth program, which consists of a Center for Coastal Dune, River, and Tide Studies; a traditional shoe factory; a community olive oil press and exchange; and an Ecological Hotel. That's a complex program to manage for a summer studio!

Alex gave us some good advice as we were traveling to Valencia. Why not look around us for inspiration? How can we use our travels for our benefit? What strategies have been used before that can be implemented in our own designs?

One of the interesting things about Valencia is its nearby river. The water from the river has mostly been diverted so that no more water flows in the riverbed. However, the designers planned it such that they allowed enough water to still flow underground so that plants would still grow. So a park now sits in the riverbed and the plants never need to be watered because the water table is high enough that the plants can get all the water they need.

Very inspiring--that the river, which was once a life force in Valencia, is still a life force but more behind the scenes, and the riverbed has become a site for public use. Much to think about in the coming weeks for my final project.

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14: Midreview

Midreview. This one word alone is enough to send chills down all architecture students' spines...

The all-nighters. The blood, sweat, and tears. Fretting for hours over the lineweights, the layout--praying that the plotter is still functioning when you need to print, and that your model can stand up on its own.

Oh, and what the hell am I going to say when it's finally my turn to stand, trembling and sweating, in front of the critical jury's unwavering, unimpressed gaze? 

This midreview was different. And because it was so different, it was a little more difficult than usual. But it wasn't difficult in the sense that it was stressful. I had to think about my project in ways that I have never had to before. 

Let's just say that studio has been chill thus far, compared to studio back at UC Berkeley. It's the Spanish effect. Alex is laid back, and siesta every day gives us time to take a break from thinking about studio work. And I think it's done our projects good. 

We began our exploration of site by diagramming the Mercadillo's set up, daytime activities, and cleanup, as well as mapping our experience climbing to the castles in Guardamar and Alicante. We learned how to make diagrams that are both symbolic, informative, and formally beautiful. When we started a more specific site study for our final project, we began by building a 3D representation of the Rio Segura using random items from the dollar store down the street. This model informed our 2D representations--the diagram. 

A second model was constructed based on the first diagram, and then another diagram was drawn from that. Layers of information and interpretation began to grow, morph, and evolve into works of art--and our attitude toward the site. 

Alex had us each come up with two words to describe our project. Verbs are perfect because they describe something dynamic happening at the site that can be translated into architecture. It was difficult because, as Alex said, it's easier to write a book than to write a postcard--that is, it takes a lot of thought and care to distill your project into two succinct words. But it helps the project to find its essence. 

I learned to always take a look at your project and distill it down to its essential parts. It's not the same as simplifying--that implies removing elements to change it. It's about finding the key words that describe your project to help you move forward in another direction. 

(I'm glad to say that everyone got constructive feedback and no one cried. Very unusual for a midreview!)

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13: Prepare for Bug Bites

Gross picture, I know. That big bite made the inside of my ankle swell up! At first I thought my ankle was inflamed because I was walking too much. But, alas, I've realized that I just react really badly to bug bites.

Every time I'm out late (participating in night life, going to the beach, getting back from the bus station late) or early (out for morning runs, or getting back from the bus station... early, I guess!), I get one or two bug bites. This picture is just one of them. Right now I have a huge swollen red patch on the back of my left thigh from a particularly brutal one.

Everyone reacts to bug bites differently (the locals don't seem to have any!), but it's a good idea to bring some cortizone cream with you. Or, get some ice from the Pencion's freezer, put it in a bag, and ice those itchy spots. Just, whatever you do, do not itch. Way easier said than done, I know.

An alternative to bringing cortizone cream (or spending a lot of money on a tube while in Europe) is to use home remedies, which take advantage of products that are cheaper to buy or that you might already have. I have to credit my mom with these treatments--after I told her about my bug bites, she sent me a link to an awesome website with many, many ways to make a big bite stop itching! Here's the website: Over 40 mosquito bite itch relief tips.

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12: Bring Snacks to Studio

Cacahuetes bañados en chocolate

Studio is from 10AM-2PM. Lunch/siesta is from 2PM-5PM. Studio happens again from 5PM-8PM. Lately, though, we've been ending around 8:30-9PM. The sun is still out at 9PM so it doesn't feel like the day is over, and since we've been in studio for so long, we just want to keep going...

Meal timing to ensure I don't starve has been a challenge but I think I've got it down now. I wake up early--6AM to be exact--and run to the beach at 6:30AM (I'll write a post about exercise later!). At 6AM I eat a couple crackers so I have some energy for running. I eat breakfast around 7:30AM. By 11AM, I need a snack, because lunch is still a few hours away! At 2PM I eat lunch at the Pencion. By 6PM though, I need another snack. At 8 or 9PM, I eat dinner, which is usually a salad with leftovers from lunch.

Notice that both my snack times fall during studio hours (and are around meal times that I am used to!). So what do I bring? The building in which we hold studio is two blocks away from the Mercadona, the supermarket, so if I forget to bring snacks I can hop on over, but I usually bring my own. I fill a little Tupperware container with a combination of fruit from the market (lately it's been apricots, peaches, or plums), nuts (I'm addicted to peanuts), hard-boiled egg (pre-peeled), crackers (the same ones I eat before running), spreadable cheese (similar to Laughing Cow), and/or candy (today I had a honey hard candy that was yummy!). The yummiest snack ever are peanuts bathed in chocolate, as pictured above. I also drink a lot of water and hope to stay not-too-hungry until I can eat again back at the Pension.

There's also a cafe across the street that lets us bring our coffee cups to the studio. Another cafe around the corner has tostadas with cheese for .80 euro. Lots of options, but I like to bring my own snacks.

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11: Internet Ain't Free

FRIENDS Cafe in Torrevieja. Free wifi with purchase!

There's wireless internet at the Pencion, but it's totally, completely, utterly random. I think it has something to do with both how many people are connected at one time and how close you are to where the router is, but truthfully... I have no idea. On some days, I'll be able to connect on both my iPhone and my laptop with no problems. Otherwise it's spotty on both. Most of the time, I get a spotty connection on either my phone or my laptop. On really bad days, I can't get a connection on either. Sometimes, moving down to the bar area ensures a good connection, but today that didn't work.

There are a few other options. I have an account set up with a nearby internet cafe (4.74 euros for 5 hours) where I use their computers on a timer. The library has wifi for free, but it is only open certain hours and is really slow. I've been able to connect sometimes to an unsecured wifi network from next door. The most reliable and expensive option is to purchase a personal wifi hotspot creator-thing (it looks like a flash drive and connects through USB) from any of the mobile phone vendors.

Right now, I've been sitting in Cafe Eligeme for five hours straight after ordering a cafe Americano. Good thing they don't kick people out of cafes in Spain. It's such a luxury to have stable, fast internet! I'm pretty sure I know the melodies to all of the popular soft rock/pop songs in Spain now too, because that's what radio station they're tuned into.

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10: Take a Cab

Looking back on my spontaneous weekend trip to Madrid, I feel lucky that it was such a walkable city. Everything we wanted to see was in the city center and we could walk there in 20 minutes or less.

Since then, though, I've taken cabs and buses. I'd have to say that sometimes taking a cab is worth it! I used to think that busing or walking was always the best option, but there are many factors to consider.

In Granada, getting to the Alhambra looked like a relatively short walk... but most of it was a steep uphill climb and it was still hot out. The bus didn't take you up to the entrance of the palaces. Two other girls and I took a cab (seats 4 passengers max) and arrived 15 minutes earlier than everyone else. We were sweat-free too! We paid less than the bus fare to get straight to the entrance twice as quickly. Good deal!

The bus back from Alicante only runs at certain times. The last bus from Alicante back to Guardamar on weekdays is at 9PM, but festivities such as bonfires and parades usually don't start until after the last bus leaves. The earliest bus in the morning is at 7AM. In this case, it's probably worth the 50 euro cab ride back to the Pencion to sleep and be fresh and ready for the next day. Splitting the cost of a hotel room and then riding the bus for 45 minutes in the morning is also an option, but may add up to cost the same (or more) as a cab ride home.

But your mileage--and price--may vary. In Alicante, our class split up into groups to take cabs to the Centro de Tecnificacion (a sports center) designed by Miralles. This was also an uphill climb, but the meter seemed to be running fast! My cab got away with splitting 6.25 euro, but the other cabs that arrived after us paid 7 euro and up. Your cab luck depends on how well your driver can navigate roads, run yellow lights, and avoid obstacles.

Another option is to ask the driver if there is a flat rate to your destination, but that may not exist, or may be greater than what your actual fare ends up being.

I'm always down to walk everywhere to save a few euros. It adds up! But when I need a cab, I'll call one because it's worth it.

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9: Buses Are Never Comfortable

It's deceiving. The seats on these buses look so much more comfortable than the ones on the 51B, so the ride will be much more comfortable and smooth, right?

But factor in the fact that you'll be on this bus for more than five hours, it will make multiple stops, there's no bathroom on board, your backpack won't fit in the overhead bins, and the bus seems to have no shock absorbers, and you will change your mind.

On the bus back to Alicante from Madrid, the seats reclined in a very odd way. At one point, the man in front of me reclined his seat, and was able to look up and back a little and make eye contact with me. Awkward.

Leg room is always limited. Overnight buses are no better. You've got to twist and turn to avoid smashing your legs into the seat in front of you (or your backpack), and then you've got to somehow lean against the armrest or window, or risk falling into your seatmate's lap when you fall asleep.

It's definitely cheaper to travel by bus, and the bus network is really extensive. Buses are always on time. Book online or buy the ticket at the bus station and you're ready to go, even if you haven't printed out the ticket, as long as you have your Passport. It's easy to knock out within 10 minutes of getting on the bus because there isn't much to do, though there is often a movie playing on the little screens. On more expensive buses (called Supra, versus economy), you will find a bag with a snack and a water bottle on your seat.

But definitely be prepared for a bumpy ride and uncomfortable positions!

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6: Buy Things Abroad

One of the things I worried about before getting here was that I would run out of the things I need every day, like lotion, shampoo, deodorant, and so on. I had to remind myself that I wasn't going to a third world country, but I was still anxious.

Today was the first time we experienced the weekly market. It has been in existence for a very long time. Stalls began to set up at 4AM, and by 11:30AM, the several streets near the church, library, and ayuntamiento (city hall) are full of people! Here were peddlers of all the things that you need, y mas (and more). (As you can see, I've picked up a little bit of Spanish!)

Here are just a few of the many stalls (and there are multiple vendors for each product): dried fruits, fresh produce, nuts, ham, wallets, handbags, shoes, clothes, toiletries, candy, seat cushions, art, olives, fish, toys... I walked through the market five times to get a sense of the range of products and to compare prices. The cheapest produce (4 heads of lettuce for 1 euro, as well as 1 euro for a kilo of peaches) was a booth set up along the street that leads to the bus station. The booth with the most varied array of candy was set up by the library. And the nuts and dried fruits is right around the corner from the library!

So if I ever need anything, I'm going to check the market first because of its rich cultural history and its selection.

There are other stores as well. The perfumeria is like a drugstore, but only with personal hygiene and make-up products like shampoo, body spray, soap, et cetera. The pharmacies here have all health products and all have neon green + signs. I happened to find a health food store with everything from chia seeds, medicinal herbs, protein powder, gluten free foods, and unsalted nuts (it felt a little like Berkeley Bowl in there!). Every couple of blocks, there's a "Chino" store, which is usually a huge bazaar of goods (probably made in China)--I think of them as the Walmarts of Guardamar. I've purchased trace paper, tupperware, and a beach towel from such shops. The "no more than two euro" store is analogous to the Dollar Tree. Of course, the supermarket also stocks a lot of common household items like laundry detergent, ziplock bags, and so forth.

So I've learned that I didn't need to worry about finding the products I'm used to using in the States. The only thing is that it's slightly more expensive to buy common products here, and some things are a lot more expensive--a small bottle of sunscreen is about 8 euro, which is $10!

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5: Bring Comfy Shoes

It's hard to only pack two pairs of shoes for a two and a half month trip to Europe. But it's even harder to deal with bloody ankles and extra weight.

Our studio course finally met today for the first time. We were going on a walk, Alex said, so wear comfy shoes.

We hiked up to Guardamar's old castle, which is now in ruins; the old church behind it is now used as a water reservoir. The views of the sea to the East and the jagged mountains to the West were breathtaking and we welcomed the strong breeze. It was quite a hike just to the castle up steep streets and rocky paths. The worst was over, it seemed, once we got back down to street level.

...But the journey had only just begun!

The next couple of hours were spent trekking across the urban parts of town to the dunes by the sea. These huge sand dunes are now massive and unmovable, but just a century ago, they threatened to bury Guardamar's streets. Native pine trees and other flora were planted (and replanted annually) to prevent dune erosion and movement. After what seems like miles and miles of walking, we finally break out of the pine forest and head out to the mouth of the river. Rio Segura meets the Mediterranean sea on the Northern side of Guardamar. At this point, I am dreading the walk back.

We decide that following the beach would be the fastest way to get home. Our shoes come off as we begin to walk in the sand. I notice that a lot of people's ankles are bloody and several people complained of blisters.

I looked down at my feet--tired but unscathed--which already have tan lines on them... they're more like tan strips, actually. The sandals I brought are Tevas that I bought just for this trip after much research. Every step feels padded and the sandals stay secure on my feet. They have a lot of grip so that I don't slip on the shiny tiled sidewalks. The only other pair of shoes I brought are my running shoes--essential, and also comfortable. Truthfully, I envy everyone else's cute sandals, but at the end of the day, my feet are a thousand times better off in a pair of utilitarian Tevas. I'm glad I did my research and tried on several different pairs of sandals before finally buying Tevas.

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4: Bring Your iPhone

That's a screenshot of my iPhone showing the travel apps that I got. They were all free. They've already proven instrumental in helping me pack efficiently, start to explore Spain, and visualize my flights. I'm not using my iPhone for calls because AT&T won't unlock it.

So why am I bringing my iPhone in the first place? Why bring two cell phones when I'm only planning to use one for calls within Spain? Doesn't that go against the very principles of packing light?

It's because the iPhone can do so much more than just make calls and send texts (in fact, the use of apps on any mobile Apple device rivals the use of its intended functionality). I can set alarms, use it to track my expenses, and take notes on the fly. Its camera is good enough that I can use it to take quick pictures. In moments of boredom, I can play games or listen to music. Most importantly, I can use the phone with just wifi to Skype with friends and family back home for free. I can post blog entries right from my phone! All I have to do is put my iPhone in Airplane Mode (so that it doesn't even try to find a radio or 3G signal, ensuring that I don't make or receive any calls or texts while abroad) and find a wireless internet hotspot.

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3: Get an International Number

Cell phones are ubiquitous these days. They're mutlitasking little pieces of technology--used for making calls, sending texts, checking email, taking photos, and listening to music, among a litany of other things. I'll admit that my phone has practically become an extension of my arm because it does so many things, all with a light tap on the screen.

But what happens when I go abroad? If you're like me, you'll still want to be able to call and text other people. During the program in Spain, it will be helpful even if not everyone has a cell phone because I can be the main point of contact for a group of people. Since I'm planning on couch surfing after the program is over, I will need a number so that I can contact my hosts, and vice versa. And if my friends or family ever really needed to hear my voice in the next two and a half months, it can happen inexpensively.

After researching AT&T's international roaming plans, I decided against using my iPhone as my primary phone while in Europe (but since it is an extension of my arm, I'm still going to bring it--more about that later). The cheapest way, I've found, is to use a phone that you already own with an international SIM card. Without getting too technical, the Subscriber Identity Module card stores information about the phone's number, the contacts stored in the phone, and, most importantly, the network that the phone can use. Because phones are usually locked into one network regardless of what SIM card is used, the phone must be unlocked before an international SIM card will work.

I have a cheap Samsung A107 GoPhone that I used for a week when I was waiting for a different phone to be repaired--good thing I kept it. AT&T gave me an unlock code, but the screen still displayed "WRONG CARD" with the international SIM card in it--I wasn't even given a chance to enter the unlock code! A quick Google search, though, led me to a sketchy string of numbers that I entered into the phone... and BOOM! It worked!

And now I have a number based in the United Kingdom that will cost me $.59 per minute for outgoing calls and $.40 per outgoing text message. But incoming calls and texts are free! I got my international SIM card from GO-SIM.

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2: Have a Purpose

Historically, the Grand Tour was a traditional trip through Europe to study Classical architecture, a rite of passage for the young architect. An analogous tour for an Architecture student like me in today’s modern, global context is both strikingly similar yet completely different in purpose.

I am doing an Architectural Summer Studio in Guardamar de Segura, Spain, because it will be my Grand Tour to support my educational and career goals.

Studying at UC Berkeley has shown me how internationally connected the architectural profession is, which makes understanding other countries’ histories and cultures increasingly important. This is especially urgent in a world where attention to sustainability in environmental design is a global concern because it affects everyone on the planet. My education in Spain will provide a global understanding of the world, a competitive characteristic especially in these economic times. This new understanding will benefit my career because I will be able to approach design problems in different ways and use my experience to start to create a global network that connects me to architects in other countries. 

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1: Research Never Ends

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